London Reviews: Bao, Soho

Of the all the British habits that I’ve picked up over the many years living in London, the most useful has to be the willingness and patience developed to wait in a queue. My endless quest for the best eats in town has found me standing in line on good many an occasion, from breakfast (for Bilbo Granger’s ricotta hotcakes, and boy were they worth it) to even for a street salad (fiendishly good, from Savage Salads).

So I suppose that it was inevitable that I would succumb to the hype surrounding Bao. The Taiwanese street stall (originating in Netil Market) recently set down permanent roots in Soho’s Lexington Street, with Time Out correctly predicting a Momofuku-style buzz and queues.


Strategically arriving well ahead of when the tiny eatery officially opens for lunch at noon, ensured that I was able to grab a spot at the very front of the very quirky Bao Stop; an (orderly) queue soon forming thereafter.

I was joined by the lovely Colleen, a fellow food enthusiast and blogger who recently made the move from Kansas City to London (hence her aptly titled blog, Blond Across the Pond!) I really love how warm and close-knit the blogging community is in this city, it’s given me the chance to cement some wonderful new friendships with really interesting and like-minded individuals, like her. And of course it’s an added bonus that there are no funny looks or grimaces when the camera eats first upon the food arriving!

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Speaking of food, our appetites were sufficiently whet while we were waiting, as we glanced through the short and simple menu organised around xiao chi (small dishes); bao (signature steamed milk buns) and sides. The look and feel once inside is quite simple too, with a no-fuss minimalist decor.

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Seeing as it was lunch time on a Monday morning, sake was forsaken for cold Oolong Tea (left to infuse for a full 24 hours before serving, slightly sweetened). Topped with a frothy milk foam, it was a refreshing choice given the humid weather outside.

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With just the one vegetarian option on the menu, I went for the daikon bao and was not disappointed with the deep-fried, yet oh-so-creamy, panko-crumbed radish cake pillowed between the warm, soft and fluffy bun. Although, a bit more of the daikon pickle and coriander, and a gentle dash more of hot sauce could go further in bringing out these added flavours. To their credit, Bao’s kitchen also offered to conjure up another veggie combination involving kim chi – something for next time I suppose.

Meanwhile Colleen was one very happy customer with the confit park bao. Stuffed with generous strands of confit pork belly, pork and hot sauces with dried shallots, she found it sweet, salty and tangy all at once.

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We also ordered the sides to share, which were brought out at random.

Cavolo Nero proved to be one of the best salads had in a while, sharply dressed with a combination of rich black vinegar and nutty sesame oil, while the salted egg crumbled in added a bit of texture.

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Sweet potato fries arrived generously coated with deep-fried breadcrumbs and drenched in a deliciously sweet plum-pickle ketchup.

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Our server almost forgot to bring us our order of Eryngii mushroom, and just as well. Thinly sliced and grilled, this was actually a rather humdrum affair. Now the aubergine with wanton crisp, is one that I would have loved to try – but alas, the use of shrimp paste rendered it inadmissible for my vegetarian disposition.

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I have to confess, dessert bao – fried horlicks ice cream bao, to be exact – was ordered mainly out of curiosity. What followed next was quite something though. Far from overpowering, the horlicks ice cream had a subtle but very appealing malted sweetness to it, pairing incredibly well with the “fried bao” made with doughnut batter, that it was sandwiched in between.

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Despite the limited veggie options, I suspect that I may find myself soon queueing at the Bao Stop again – the  tea, the Taiwanese play on Tuscan kale, the pillowy buns and an ice cream bao – providing reasons enough to venture back.

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Bao, 53 Lexington Street, Soho, London W1F 9AS

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13 responses to “London Reviews: Bao, Soho”

  1. Blonde Across the Pond Avatar
    Blonde Across the Pond

    Take me back to B A O! It was delicious. So happy we got to try it!

    Colleen xx | blondeacrossthepond.com

    1. The Foodie Diaries Avatar

      Incredibly good, so happy we went together too xxx

  2. vdaltonbanks Avatar

    This has been on my must-eat list for so long, but the queues put me off! I think I just need to go early like you one lunch time and just suck it up and queue – the steamed buns and the desert look too good to miss!x

    1. The Foodie Diaries Avatar

      They really are too good to miss, and do try the cold Oolong tea to wash it all down with! I definitely suggest getting there 15-20 minutes before opening time, as then you’re in as soon as they open their doors. Look forward to comparing notes once you’ve been 🙂 xx

  3. […] been particularly exciting, eating my way across some of London’s hottest new openings from Bao‘s pillowy offerings to an exquisite selection of tapas at […]

  4. […] The humble steamed buns from Taiwan have been enjoying more than their fifteen seconds in the spotlight, with Bao London one of the city’s hottest openings this year following on from a successful run as a street stall. Time Out correctly predicted Momofuku-style buzz and queues, but as this foodie found, it’s worth the inevitable wait at the “Bao Stop” in Soho for the pillowy offerings inside (you can catch my full review, here). […]

  5. […] – from my experience waiting in line at the Bao Stop in Soho, London (more on Bao London, here) to crossing the sea link in Bombay (some might say this constitutes an out-of-town trip in […]

  6. […] Okay fine. Comfortably nestled in the heart of Soho, Bao is far from the road less travelled for foodies. But if you’re looking for a slightly more offbeat dessert, I do recommend the fried horlicks ice cream bao here. There’s something incredibly moreish about the malted sweetness of the horlicks ice cream snugly sandwiched between a crisp “fried bao” (whipped up with a doughnut-batter, in case you’re wondering). Catch my full review of Bao, here. […]

  7. […] that’s at the helm of Trishna & Gymkhana not to mention they’ve also backed Bao, Bubbledogs & Lyle’s. So as you’d imagine, expectations were riding high ever […]

  8. […] really no disputing that London is one of the most eclectic culinary capitals of the world. From Taiwanese steamed buns to Sri Lankan hoppers, Peruvian pleasures to the food of modern day Jerusalem, we’re living […]

  9. […] 2015 was all about the bao (not that the eponymous restaurant in Soho is any less buzzworthy today), this year its all about the poke (pronounced poh-kay) […]

  10. […] would look something like Xu – the latest restaurant from the trio behind the wildly popular Bao in Soho and […]

  11. […] Greek-chic restaurant in the heart of Fitzrovia; while the folks who brought us the wildly-popular Bao, are transporting diners back in time to 1930’s Taipei (or a cinematic reinterpretation of […]

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